柞(ははそ)hahaso

能登の大野製炭工場はナラ・クヌギを原材料にお茶炭や火鉢の炭を生産している。天然のクヌギの良材を生産するため、自らどんぐりから苗木を作り植林をして山を作り始めた。今では地元はもとより全国の茶人を巻き込んで植林活動を行うなど、環境活動としての広がりを見せている。

千利休は茶事における炭の美を発見した最初の茶人と言われている。菊炭(きくすみ)は木口の断面に放射状の割れ目がはいって菊の花が咲いたような美しい模様になることからその名が付いた。その菊炭を象った上生菓子の練り切。その名は「柞(ははそ)」。(ははそ=母なる森のクヌギ、コナラ、クリのような雑木の総称として、万葉集などの和歌にも見られる古語)

お菓子を製作したのは、石川県輪島に住むのがし研究所の萩のゆきさん。クヌギの植林を行ったあと里山の人々を招いた茶事に、と考案したのがこのお菓子である。在来小豆のこしあんに食用炭と黒ごまで墨色を出している。中餡は能登大納言。小豆はどちらも自家栽培の無農薬栽培のもの。餡は炭焼きでできる「わせ」と呼ばれる小枝の炭を使い珪藻土のかまどで炊いている。三角棒という道具一本で形を作る。皮が付いているようにエッジを工夫し練り切りのぼかしで炭火を表現。すり鉢であたったゴマを灰に見立ててまぶしている。パッとみたら本物の炭に見えてしまうほど。客人たちはそのリアルさに思わずはっと目を見張り、風雅で芳醇な胡麻の風味と甜菜糖を使用したやわらかい甘味を口にしてふんわり笑顔に。「やけどしそう」とはしゃぐ声も聞こえる。

クヌギ、地の小豆、胡麻、ひとつひとつ丁寧に手作りされた菊炭のお菓子「柞(ははそ)」を通して、私たちは脈々と絶えることなくもたらされてきた、母なる森の恵みに思いをめぐらせる。
 
 
(参考)大野製炭工場

Ohno Charcoal Factory on the Noto Peninsula produces charcoal for tea ceremonies and braziers using Japanese oak and sawtooth oak as the main materials. To produce quality natural sawtooth oak, they made a forest by self-growing and planting saplings from acorns. Today, this has grown as an environmental activity through tree-planting with tea masters from both the local area and other parts of the country.

The tea master Sen no Rikyu is believed to be the first tea master who discovered the beauty of charcoal in the tea ceremony. Kikusumi charcoal is named after the pattern of the radially cracked cross-section surface, which looks like a beautifully blooming flower of Kiku, or chrysanthemum as it is known in English. There is a refined Nerikiri, a kind of raw sweet for tea ceremony, which is shaped like Kikusumi charcoal. It is called ‘Hahaso’. (Hahaso is an ancient word seen in Waka poems in Manyoshu, The Anthology of Ten Thousand Leaves, from the 7th-8th Century. It is a collective term for small trees within a motherly forest such as sawtooth oak, Konara oak and chestnut.)

The person who makes these sweets is Yuki Hagino of Nogashi Sweets Laboratory. She lives in Wajima in Ishikawa Prefecture. The sweets were created for the tea ceremony, to which locals are invited after working to plant sawtooth oak trees.
The ink colour is achieved by mixing edible charcoal and black sesame seeds into the regular sweet Azuki bean paste. The inside paste is made from Noto Dainagon Azuki beans. Both these kinds of Azuki beans are organic and grown in house. Sweet bean pastes are created using a natural furnace made from diatomaceous earth and small branch charcoals called Wase, which are produced through the charcoal-making process.
The sweets are shaped by a single tool called a ‘triangle stick’. The edges of the sweets will be shaped as if there is a skin on them, with their gradation expressing the charcoal fire. The sweets are finished by coating them with black sesame seeds ground in a mortar, to give the effect of charcoal. At a glance, it really does look like a piece of charcoal.
At first the guests are surprised by the realistic charcoal-looking finish of the sweets, but soon they have happy smiles on their faces because of the elegant and mellow flavour of sesame seeds and the soft sweetness from sugar beets. ‘I will get burned’ – some enjoy making jokes too.

Through sawtooth oak, locally produced Azuki beans, sesame seeds and Hahaso – Kikusumi shaped sweets carefully hand-made piece by piece, we think of the grace of the motherly forest which has provided for us for a very long time.

 
Reference: Ohno Charcoal Factory

オーダーのみ受付Hahaso can be purchased by order.

¥400/piece.

のがし研究所 Nogashi Sweets Laboratory

〒929-2373 石川県 輪島市三井町市ノ坂7-31-3 7-31-3 Miimachi Ichinosaka, Wajima City, Ishikawa 929-2373 JAPAN

Website: https://www.chilchinbito-hiroba.jp/column/notonogashi/