花の装身具Jewellery of Flower

さまざまな花を象った彫金の装身具。
坂有利子さんの作品に漂うのは、ほころんだ花をたった今積み取ってきたかのような瑞々しさ。
金属という硬い素材を用いながら、このように柔らかな風合いを表現できる手わざには驚きを覚えますが、こうした作品の魅力を読み解くには、彫金という工芸の成り立ちを思い起こしてみる必要がありそうです。

古墳の副葬品などを見てもわかる通り、彫金をはじめとする金属工芸は古代から存在しましたが、坂さんが会得した東京彫金の技巧の礎が築かれたのは江戸時代のこと。
太平の世が続いたこの時期、大名をはじめとする上級武家は武具であった刀の鍔(つば)に芸術性を求め、裕福な庶民は煙管(きせる)や根付などの意匠で粋を競うように。そのような状況下で、彫金の技術は飛躍的に発展しました。
のちに幕府が滅ぶと、最大の庇護者を失った彫金はそのまま廃れるかと思われましたが、意外な進化の道をたどります。刀装で培われた精緻な細工は香炉や花瓶などの制作に活かされ(いわゆる「超絶技巧」)、海外向けの美術品という地位を得ることになったのです。
欧米の文化潮流の変化から、そのような役割は短命に終わってしまいますが、伝統の技は東京の下町を中心にその後も脈々と受け継がれてゆきました。

坂さんは、江戸で発展した彫金の流れを汲む最後の世代 — 田中照行氏、齋藤照英氏、中島一華氏といった名工に師事し、彫り・打ち出し・象嵌などの技を取得しています。
以前、彼女のお供で齋藤先生のお宅を訪れたことがあるのですが、仕事場には美しい文字が書かれた掛け軸が飾られていました。作者を尋ねてみたら、なんと先生の作品。彫金というジャンルにとどまらず、書画にも通じていることに目を瞠りましたが、これも職人に求められる大事な素養のひとつなのだそうです。
坂さんも、先人たちと同じ道を歩み、書画、さらに華道を学んできた方。これだけの教養を身につけるには長い年月が必要となるわけで、すべてに早急な結果を求める現代においては稀有な作り手だと思います。
これらの装身具の瑞々しさを醸す元になっているのは、彼女の手わざの背景に広がる豊穣な美の世界。いずれは帯留めになるのか、それともブローチになるのか……。花々は、良き理解者の身を飾ることで、さらに瑞々しさを増すことでしょう。

 

コハルアン
はるやまひろたか

Metalwork by Yurico Saka, representing different types of flowers, holds freshness as if they have just bloomed and been picked.
It is surprising how her technique is able to achieve such a soft texture with metal, which is a solid material. To understand the work more deeply, we perhaps need to trace back the origins of metalwork as a craft.
As we can see in the burial accessories from Kofun (Japanese ancient tomb), craftwork including metalwork has existed since ancient times. But it was in the Edo period when the basis of the Tokyo Metalwork technique was built, which Yurico has mastered.

During the peaceful period of Edo, high-ranking Samurai clans such as Daimyo (feudal lord) sought beauty in weapons, guards of swords for instance, whereas wealthy commoners tended to compete with each other for their elegance through the design of pipes or Netsuke (carved ornaments). Under this tendency, the techniques of metalwork were immensely developed.
When Bakufu (shogunate government) came to an end, metalwork seemed to be ending too as it lost its biggest supporters. However, metalwork evolved in an unexpected way. Delicate craft techniques, developed through making the decoration of swords (the technique referred as ‘transcendence’), became useful to produce incense burners and vases, which gained the position of artworks for export.
Due to the shift in the cultural movement of the West, this role of metalwork did not last long, but the traditional skill has been passed on for generations thereafter, mainly in the downtown area of Tokyo.

Being taught by masters in the last generation of metalwork developed in Edo (former name of Tokyo) such as Teruyuki Tanaka, Shoei Saito, and Ikka Nakajima, Yurico has mastered techniques including engraving, chasing, repousse, and inlay.
I once visited Saito-sensei with Yurico. There was a hanging scroll with beautiful calligraphy on display in his studio. I asked who’s work it is. It was his, actually. I was astonished that he is not only a master of metalwork, but also calligraphic work and painting. But apparently it is one of the important fundamental abilities that craftsperson should have.
Yurico is also a person who followed the teachers and learned calligraphic work and painting, as well as the art of flower arrangement. To master so many cultural skills, one needs a not inconsiderate amount of time. I think that she is therefore a rare craftsperson today, where people want to see an outcome immediately.
The secret of the freshness in Yurico’s jewellery is in the rich artistic world spreading behind her craft technique. Some might be used as a clip for Obi sash belt, or maybe as a brooch… Those flowers become even more lively when they decorate people who appreciate the richness of the world of art.

 

Hirotaka Haruyama
KOHARUAN

コハルアン KOHARUAN Kagurazaka Store

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