金網細工Kanaami Wire Netting Ware

金網細工の歴史は古く、平安時代には香炉の上にかぶせる銅製の道具があったといわれています。明治時代以降、主に調理器具として盛んになった金網細工ですが、昭和30年頃に安価なプラスチック製品が急速に広まったことで店の数も激減し、今日では伝統的な手編みの金網細工店は片手で数えるほどに。そのひとつが、御所の南、堺町通の静かな街の一角にある「辻和金網」。80年以上も変わることのない伝統の技で京都の料理人に愛され続けてきたこの店には、茶漉しや焼き網、ザル、豆腐すくい・・・さまざまな金網細工を求めて、全国から人がやってきます。金網細工に使うのはごくシンプルな道具。分厚い木の板に打ち付けた釘に針金を引っ掛けてグイと曲げ、枠となる部分を形作ります。あとは職人の指先の感覚が勝負。その繊細な手仕事を店内で直接見学することができます。

職人の手から編み出される亀甲模様は繊細で風雅なもの。「美しさの基準は人それぞれ違いますが、丈夫さには基準があります。丈夫であることを追い求めた結果、生まれたのがこの形なのです」と語ってくれた三代目の辻泰宏さん。商品に添えられた手入れ方法の栞、修理やオーダーメイドへの丁寧な対応からは、使い手に長く愛されるようにとの配慮が感じられます。千年の時を越えて愛されてきた美しさは、飾り物ではない本物の「用の美」なのでした。

Wire netting ware (Kanaami in Japanese) has a long history. It is believed that tools made of copper already existed in the Heian period, such as covers for incense burners. After the Meiji period, wire netting ware became popular mainly as cooking utensils. From the late 1950s, however, the number of workshops producing wire netting ware declined significantly due to the fast growth of cheap plastic products, and only a handful making traditional handmade products remains today. One of the shops is Tsujiwa Kanaami, located on one corner in a quiet neighbourhood on Sakaimachi-dori Street in the southern area of the Old Imperial Palace in Kyoto. The traditional craftsmanship of Tsujiwa Kanaami has been admired by generations of Kyoto’s cooking experts over 80 years. People from all over Japan visit for various products such as: tea strainers; grills; sieves; and ladles for boiled tofu (Yu Dofu in Japanese). The tools for making wire netting ware are very simple. Tangle a metal wire around a nail in a plank of wood, and bend it firmly to shape a frame. The key tool thereafter is the sensation of the fingertips of the craftspersons. In the workshop, we can view their sensitive handiwork.

The hexagonal patterns woven by craftspersons are delicate and elegant at the same time. “The canon of beauty depends on individuals, but there is a clear standard for their robustness as products. These patterns and shapes are achieved naturally while seeking such robustness,” says Yasuhiro Tsuji, the third generation proprietor of the business. Though a guide attached to each product to explain how to maintain the item, and with customer support for repairs or tailoring orders, we can see their deep care to making products loved by their new owners for a long time. The beauty that has attracted people over a thousand years is a true “beauty of use”.

茶こし 銅×ステンレスTea strainer (copper, stainless)

from JPY ¥3,300 (incl. Japanese tax)

辻和金網 Tsujiwa Kanaami

〒604-0811 京都府京都市中京区堺町通夷川下る亀屋町175 175 Kameya-cho, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto 604-0811 JAPAN

075-231-7368

Website: http://www.tujiwa-kanaami.com/