We had Funa-zushi (fermented crucian carp Sushi) at Ryouri Uoishi, a restaurant located in Azuchicho Jorakuji in Omihachiman City of Shiga Prefecture.
Funa-zushi is a world-class local dish from Shiga Prefecture (formerly Omi Province) within which Lake Biwa, one of about 20 ancient lakes in the world with a history spanning 4 million years, is located.

Funa-zushi is a typical kind of fermented Sushi from ancient Japan, and is a traditional dish which has been continuously produced since ancient times using Nigoro-buna (round crucian carp) caught in Lake Biwa as one of the main ingredients. Its origin goes back to the Nara period – the mention of its name can be traced to the Mokkan tablets (a narrow strip of wood on which an official document or record is written) of Prince Nagaya’s Residence and Second Street from the era.

Taking almost a whole year from initial preparation to completion is one of the characteristics of the dish. First, pull out all the inner parts from crucian carp caught in Spring time, and put salt in their empty stomachs. Next, line the fish between layers of salt in a wooden tub, cover with another layer of salt, put a heavy stone on the lid, and keep the tub in a cool dark place. In midsummer, take out the fish and wash them to remove salt. Put salted steamed rice from Omi region into the stomach of the fish. In the tub, lay them alternately with rice. Put a heavy stone on to the lid to keep any air out, and then continue to store in a cool dark place. The savouriness of the fish in the tub comes from amino acid growing due to lactic fermentation. By the end of the year, it will be well matured and finally ready to eat.

‘This dish used to be prepared in every household as a meal for celebrative occasions. Apparently my grandmother used to go around the neighbourhood and teach people how to make this traditional foodstuff. Depending on which tub you use, lactic acid bacteria comes in different ways. If you travel to different regions in Shiga Prefecture, you will be surprised to come across differences in flavour between each region’ says Yuichiro Zegai, the cook at Uoishi restaurant.
For cooking at Ryouri Uoishi, beautiful spring water continuously coming out on site has been used for a long time. In the right season, we can see local ladies coming to wash crucian carp in a cistern across the street.

An ancient dish prepared since the Nara period is served to us today. As if it is a precious treasure, Funa-zushi is shining solemnly on a plate. Probably the number of people who are able to prepare this dish is decreasing in the current society, where people chase efficiency and convenience. To pass down a Japanese treasure like this Funa-zushi to future generations, it is essential to be determined to love, protect and hand down the speciality of the local region, and to have a passion in believing in the richness which can only be attained through hard work, time and effort.