There are not so many moments in life when we wish to pause time. As we grow older, we become less emotional towards little things. I was thinking this may be because our sensitivity decreases with age. But, every time I come across a perfect and comfortable environment, I reassess this thought and think that it is because I have just not had enough sensational experiences. 

Kensaku Yamada, the owner of the restaurant Tokishirazu in Nakamachi of Matsumoto City, seems to be someone who invites his customer on a playful journey through food. I understood his hospitality had already begun when I phoned to make a reservation and heard the poised tone of his voice.

Based in a renovated storehouse originally built in 1893. Established in April 2009. The Machiya house, over 100 years old, was designed in a modern and sophisticated style. 

I visited in June of the 10th year since opening of the restaurant. I had a full course of Ayu (sweetfish) *1.

Going through the entrance under the linen Noren curtain, on which an illustration of a gourd is dyed, we enter the main floor. The upstairs seating area is designed to look over the Nakamachi Dori street through the barred window. The Tokonoma alcove, which is finished with plaster mixed with rice grains, is a work by plasterer Yusuke Shirasawa. A hanging scroll ‘Kochu Jitsugetsu Nagashi’ is on display in the alcove. By Isamu Noguchi’s lantern, there is seating on a wooden floor, in the style of an Irori fireplace. 

My nerves were tense when I set off on my assignment, but they became relaxed when I sat within such a comfortable environment. 

First, a grilled young Ayu came with its soft bone, sandwiched between chrysanthemum shaped Monaka wafers. Crispy texture and a rich aroma of charcoal-fired Ayu are followed by foie gras and the bitter flavour of Ayu oozing out from the wafers with fish meat.

I was recommended some local Sake. While having top-quality dry Sake, I took time to appreciate a little glass dish of flaked Ayu topped with Sansho (Japanese pepper). 

Next was Ayu hotpot. With simply grilled young Ayu, Myoga (Japanese ginger), Kuruma Fu (wheat gluten in the shape of a donut), leek, vermicelli noodles, and Tofu. All the ingredients float happily in a beaten silver pan, bathing in stock.  

The constant speed at which the dishes are served supports my pace for drinking the recommended local Shinshu wine and Sake. 

The last dish was Ayu and Myoga rice, cooked in a traditional pot. A whole Ayu is on top of the toasty slightly burnt rice scooped from the bottom of the pot. 

Two ladies served me in the evening. I admired their efficient movements, detailed explanation of each dish, and witty conversation. ‘Are you two related?’ I asked because they looked like each other. But they smiled ‘everyone says so, but the three of us (including the owner Mr Yamada) are not related at all.’ How the restaurant treats their customers reflects how sophisticated it is. 

‘Kochu Jitsugetsu Nagashi’ in the hanging scroll, in Zen Buddhism terminology, means ‘a tiny world as if it is inside of a pot. Even though you have an extremely fast-paced busy everyday life, if we see differently it becomes a world of fullness like paradise.’

I looked at the scroll with a slightly drunk head – it made sense. And my evening at Tokishirazu continued… 

*1) The hotpot of Ayu and Myoga in the picture is a seasonal dish (between early May to the end of July. A reservation must be made two days before).

Other seasonal hotpot dishes include: chicken / chicken Sukiyaki (whole year), soft‐shelled turtle (whole year), grilled conger eel and Horikawa burdock (between January and February), and others. You can also enjoy a special course (with selected ingredients by the chef) at the counter seats.