Shangri-La, paradise, utopia. A variety of terms can express an ideal place, but none of them is good enough to describe Flatt’s, an Italian guest house in Noto on the Noto Peninsula.

The guest house “Sannami”, run by the parents of Chikako Funashita, was a hidden yet well-established guest house in Noto. When Chikako came home with Ben Flatt, who she met in Australia, Chikako’s father asserted that it would be impossible for Ben to make a living in Noto. This made Ben’s mind. He made a strenuous effort to physically experience and understand the food, tradition and culture of Noto. After a period of trial and error, Ben established the “Noto Italian” style. It was 1997 when he opened the guest house “Flatt’s”. The place has attracted attention and is now always busy with customers.

For the dishes, traditional local fermented foods are used frequently. Ishiri (*1), Sake lees, Konkaiwashi (*2), Miso (soya bean paste), vegetables, citrus fruits… As much as possible, everything is homemade. Ishiri is a particular family treasure, which was made by Chikako’s father before concepts as “slow food” or “local production for local consumption” became popular. To protect the truly local delicacy of Noto, the recipe has been carefully passed down across generations, and now even Chikako and Ben’s son helps with the preparation every year.

Soup of homegrown onion and Ishiri is served cold in a chilled bowl, made by a locally-based glass artist Miki Emoto. Carpaccio of Hachime (Japanese rockfish) with special sauce of Shiso (perilla) and Yuzu should be eaten with lacquered chopsticks so as not to damage the Goroku bowl of Wajima lacquer ware. Ajillo of turban shell comes with a hint of Konkaiwashi. Breakfast includes freshly steamed Noto rice, fish miso soup, Tofu with Yunanba sauce (*3), salted perilla seeds, Umeboshi (pickled plum) of homegrown plums, Yuzu zest pickled with Miso, charcoal grilled Kaibe (rice ball mixed with Ishiri), three-year Konkaiwashi… many of which took a long time to prepare before being finally served. These dishes, made with locally sourced and prepared ingredients, make us naturally feel thankful.

The detached room called Hanare is where I stay the night. The room has a private bathroom with a cypress bathtub, but Chikako says “I will show you the outdoor bath”. Following her, I see a small hut over the garden. According to Chikako, it is an open-air bath handmade by her father. Opening the door of the hut, there is a utopia overlooking the sea. Meditative bath time almost made me feel clear about my own body and mind.

The traditional local festival of Noto has been cancelled this year. Under the current circumstances, it is still difficult for young people who live in larger cities to come home. “What is worrying is the fact that we lose the chance to pass down the culture of traditional food” says Ben. Twenty years or so has passed since he first stepped on the soil of Noto with Chikako. Ben has fully become a Noto local who loves Noto.
“Our son is becoming interested in fermented food, and now says that he would like to make them himself. But well, it is up to him” says Chikako with supportive eyes. They never force this on their son.

The couple is proud of their parents, who ran “Sannami” guest house with high spirit. Noto’s culture of food, which they are continuing, should be protected. Everyday, they work hard for it.

*1) Ishiri is fish soy sauce that is made traditionally in Noto. Only made in Noto in Japan, it is produced by fermenting squid bowels in salt for more than one year. Chikako’s father was the only selected “local master” for Ishiri making.
*2) Konkaiwashi are sardine round herrings that are fermented and matured for one year in Konka (rice bran),solt, and chillies.
*3) Yunanba is spicy Yuzu chilli paste made by maturing Yuzu, chilli and salt in a pottery pot for a long time (Flatt’s has more than thirty Yuzu trees). It is good as a condiment for Shabushabu hotpot, Gyoza dumplings (instead of chilli oil), Tofu or Udon noodles.

Photos by Nik van der Giesen